Onshore from Namibia to Angola is a wild card. What we really know is that this southern African country was a Portuguese colony that had been around for about 400 years and was not trapped in decades of civil war until 2002. We thought we would arrive at the border town of Rundu, Namibia, gathered some local Intel (Angola Trip) for this trip to Angola, as well as the neighborhood town near Calai, but we couldn’t find anyone who competed! Google Maps makes it seem like you have to drive for eight hours to cross the river, and Booking.com pulls up zero The result of the hotel…this only makes us more curious and eager to explore the southern Angola!
Namibia-Angola border in Kalai
We crossed the pedestrian bridge over the Okavango River and said goodbye to Namibia Ola Go to Angola. Immigration officials speak only Portuñol Pidgin, so in our best Portuñol Pidgin, we explained that our four-day trip to Angola was for “Ferias” (holiday purposes) and heard the sweet sound of stamps hitting our passports on the stamp. We may have “come in” but have no idea what we are entering.
A bunch of motorcycle taxis waving us, so Mike and I had no choice but to be with a stranger and hope we were going to the same place. vrrroomomWe zipped up the sandy road and entered the middle of Cale, which is the streets of two shops, an outdoor market, a Portuguese bar…and a hotel!
Stays in Kale
We opened the tall gates of the plain Tchingwali lodge and came across a tropical garden, a full restaurant and pleasant rooms with a commuter and ensuite bathroom for $16. Who knows? As a vegan who doesn’t speak Portuguese, it’s hard to find out the best plant-based options, but an hour and a half later (African time is real, lol in Angola even slower), a delicious lunch arrived.
Polenta is the basis of most meals in southern Africa and is adopted under many names (Pap, ugali, funge, etc.) and is often prepared so it is dense enough to pick up and roast the accompanying vegetables and meat. In Angora, it’s called Funge, we enjoyed our flavor with wild spinach, peanuts and slow-cooked beans. We washed it with a pair of Cuca beer and ordered another round simply because we liked the local customs of Cerveja and the bottle opener provided by Wicker Basket.
Government License Exploration
We know that Kale is not a tourist destination, but in the famous Okavango River, we think there will be some water adventures in the future. We asked where our hotel could arrange a boat trip and they said, “Where we don’t know, maybe ask on the pier.” They ignored that the “pier” was actually a naval base and they were not friendly to unannounced tourists.
After meeting with multiple officers and receiving a series of questions (“Do you want to cross Namibia? Why go to a canoe if you are not fishing? Are you a good swimmer? You know the river is full of crocodiles, right?
Canoeing
Wearing a life jacket from the fire department, we joined Segunda for the first time to get involved in river guidance. His canoe has never been passengers, but he dresses up for it, showing us his favorite vortex, islands and hippo hiding places. We leaned him towards him and shared (best!) Marasada donuts to celebrate what could be a new chapter in his Waterman career. To help achieve this we introduced him to the Tchingwali Hotel team so that they can send future guests on an Okavango canoe expedition with the adorable Segunda!
Trip to Nan’angora
Arrange your road trip now to explore more Angola! There are only a few non-government cars in the town and the best trucks happen to be parked in our hotel. We walked out and asked the owner if Peter would like to show us the owners around the southern Angola countryside. This unexpected request made a bigger proposal, joining his 120km trip to Dirico the next day, stopping to meet a Queens in the province of Cuando-Cubango.
We thought there was no more crazy idea than this trip, and we thought, “Oh, why not?!” We rode wildly along the deep sandy roads with thick brushes. As the bushes open, we get a glimpse of the powerful Okavango River, the occasional grouping of mud and thatched huts, and fields of pearl millet for scenic drives.
Visit with Queen Mutango
To understand local life and agriculture, there is no better person to meet than Queen Katrina! She generously showed us her village and farm and how to chuck and chew sugar cane like the boss! Our Angora education continued in the car when I asked Peter. (I would talk to him in Spanish and he would respond in Portugal and, surprisingly, we knew each other deeply enough). During the Angolan Civil War, his father was a general of the Rebel Party, which was located in the province of Curlando Cubongo.
From elephants to lions to giraffes to leopards, this area used to be a wildlife atmosphere, but the battle drove most of them to the safety of Namibia. Countless mines are still messy, he lamented that even though the war ended in 2002, Angola still hasn’t stood up yet. Corruption is flooded and infrastructure is severely lacking, but you cannot break the spirit of the Angolan people!
Dirico: Where to meet the river
Riding along a sandy road in a single lane for four hours, taking countless hits from the overgrown bushes and succumbing to the cattle, we arrived at the town of Dirico. On the top of the mountain where the Cuito River meets the Cubango River, it is a lovely location and a joyful place. The town square’s eponymous logo and garden anchors a lovely statue of elephant and hippopotamus. Adults and kids are playing football and we can hear the practice of the church choir.
We entered a market with some food and drinks (the first store we’ve ever seen all day) and a group of teenage girls swept me like a separated friend. They screamed, “Self-photo, selfie.” The original photo OP turned into an impromptu dance meeting and smile.
The trip to South Angola…it’s so worth it!
We spent a little time enjoying the sunset on the bridge over the Kunavale River before returning to Kale, facing the dark and sandy road. The fishermen hugged the railings and used only a stick and a line, and they pulled out the epic tiger fish. The children cheered for every catch. dinner. Peter, Mike and I cracked our n’gola certificatejas, raised warm beers on the glittering pink waters and baked memorable trips and new friendships.
Angola travel tips
Rundu-Calai Border Crossing: From Rundu to this remote border pillar, it is a 15-minute taxi. You will process your passport on the Namibian side and then cross the pontoon bridge to complete the paperwork in Kale. No visa or admission fee is required.
- Time changes: Please note that there is an hour-long time difference between Angola and Namibia. In Namibia, the border is open from 9am to 6pm and in Angola, the hours are from 8am to 5pm.
- language: Portuguese is the official language of Angola and has 47 recognized local languages. There are limited English in southern Angola, but between this and/or Spanish, people can usually understand you if you speak slowly. Since I only know a few words in Portuguese, I speak Spanish at the inflection point of Portugal and it works very well…especially when combined with the offline version of the Portuguese dictionary of Google Translate! Be sure to download it before departure!
- money: Angora Kwanza (KZ) is a national currency and is traded at 917 kz to 1 USD. In Calai and Dirico, the U.S. dollar is widely accepted, so we never need to exchange funds. Affordable in southern Angora, our hotel is $15 a night, $2 a meal and $1 a beer.
- connect: It is difficult to receive via WiFi and cell in southern Angola. Our T-Mobile Red Infinite/International Plan is invalid, but if you have a Namibian SIM card it should receive signals from the Calai. It is best to download maps, currency conversions and Portuguese dictionary before departure.
- transportation: Most people from southern Angola, southern Namibia, arrive on camping adventures as 4×4 land vehicles. It will undoubtedly be an interesting option, but we are happy to report that it is possible to make friends with the car and lol can walk to Calai.
We started this trip to Angola with zero expectations (and a little trouble) and encountered pure friendliness and unlimited adventures… It is exactly what we dreamed about on our trip! We also hope you can also walk less to southern Angora.
